Just a hundred metres north of my camping site, I saw a beacon tower right on the edge of the river bed. The Great Wall probably once ran along the entire eastern side of the river I walked along today. Because of erosion, most of it has disappeared as the river bed has slowly expanded.

The stretch I walked today was very beautiful. Happy farmers in many of the fields and nice autumn colours on the trees. I got to a village and found a small restaurant where I had my first proper dinner for five days.

North of the village, the landscape became less hilly which made me a very happy man. This part of The Great Wall has been more demanding than I expected and the short distances I have covered have been somewhat demotivating.

I planned to go by bus to Jingbian in the late afternoon to shower and wash clothes. I asked when the bus passed by and was told there was only one bus a day which left 8.30 in the morning. Whilst walking along a small road which followed the river bed, a car stopped and the driver kindly offered to drive me to Jingbian. It was only a little past two o’clock so I could still have walked another 3-4 hours but the prospect of a warm shower and guaranteed transport was too great a temptation. I will return by bus tomorrow and walk back to just south of Jingbian.

The last couple of nights have been pretty cool in my 6 month-old three season sleeping bag. Therefore, I went out to buy some long underwear today. Bought a full kit with what they call ‘Bambus fiber’. It looks like a thin fleece to me and should work great until it gets so cold that I have to start using the winter sleeping bag. I have also washed my clothes and bought more food for the next stretch to Yulin.

I’m sitting at a small, cosy and very noisy eating place in Jingbian enjoying a Xi Hong Shi Chao Ji Dan (egg and tomato) meal now, before going to bed.

12 kilometres today